Low pressure -------- High pressure

Normal pressure ratings

Blowing temperature cold (about +2 to about +8°C after 5min. of coldness (though, always follow your car manufactures specifications!) measured at the dashboard's center air-duct. System is OK.

Low pressure -------- High pressure

pressure to high - pressure to high

Symptom: Blowing temperature cool, though not cold.

Possible failure: -to much refrigerant in the system, -Condenser doesn't cool or doesn't get cooled, -Expansion-valve doesn't close.

What to do: -Clare, evacuate system, fill with the correct amount of refrigerant, -Condenser: Clean, clean fins, straighten fins (special comm tool), check for other damages, Condenser fan: function, fuse, relay, wiring, motor free running shaft, -Expansion-valve: -Replace- (if you have a system that uses thermostatic control, check thermostatic control unit's switching temperatures before installing!)

Low pressure -------- High pressure

Normal to, to low - Normal to, to high

Symptom: Blower temperature first cold, then warm, temperature changes intermittently between cold and warm.

Reason: Evaporator/Expansion-valve ices/freezes partially, then thaws.

-High pressure rises, Low pressure sinks into the vacuum area. -evaporator ices/freezes before the compressor is switched off -slow compressor (on/off switching) cycles.

Possible failure: -moisture in the system, evaporator's temperature control/-sensor defective

What to do: Clear system, change dryer bottle, evacuate system system for minimally 30min. -check evaporator's thermal control/-sensor operate in their given parameters, if not, replace.

Low pressure -------- High pressure

pressure to low - pressure normal, to, to low

Symptom: Blowing temperature not cold enough (a "bit cold, but not cold enough")

Possible failure: Not enough refrigerant in the system.

What to do: Clear system, measure the retrieved refrigerant (compare with your car's specification) for correct amount. -Do a leakage test (refrigerant sniffer), -fill with the right amount of refrigerant.

Low pressure -------- High pressure

pressure, to low - pressure, to low

Symptom: Blowing temperature not cold enough (a "bit cold, but not cold enough") -Low pressure side goes into vacuum area, -visible icing to/from the dryer bottle.

Possible failure: Expansion valve blocked, doesn't open. -Dryer bottle cloggy (a restriction, refrigerant expands before it reaches the expansion valve in the line leaving the dyer bottle).

What to do: Replace the expansion valve, though, check valve if it was blocked through alien debris like dryer bottle granulate, metal slivers (compressor), if so, clean the whole system, thoroughly! (if you have a system that uses thermostatic control, check thermostatic control unit's switching temperatures before installing!)

Low pressure -------- High pressure

pressure, to high - pressure, to low

Symptom: Blowing temperature not cold enough, -compressor (hard working noises)

Possible failure: -bad compressor power, -belt slips, -magnetic clutch defective, ill adjusted clutch space, compressor damaged.

What to do: Check belt tension, adjust accordingly, change belt, -Check magnetic clutch, (Temperature/Pressure switches, cable-wiring, fuse/relay, module, clutch free space, -Change compressor). Note: If there is a sign of metal debris in the system, flush thoroughly (probably with the use of oxygen free nitrogen), change dryer bottler.

Low pressure -------- High pressure

pressure to low - pressure normal, to, to high

Symptom: Blowing temperature not cold enough, -Visible icing on high pressure line connection.

Possible failure: Restriction on the high pressure side, (mostly) the dryer bottle.

What to to: free restriction, change parts.

Low pressure -------- High pressure

Normal pressure ratings

Symptom: Blowing temperature not cold enough, a bit cold, though not truly considered cold, -High on/off compressor cycles, (short run/short off)

Possible failure: Evaporator's temperature control/-sensor defective.

What to do: Check if temperature control/-sensor switches in its given parameters, when not, replace.

Refilling problem:
On hot summer days, refilling sometimes takes way to along, to keep the refilling time so short as possible, simple bridge the condensers cooling fan.

A few tips:

Try not to park in the sun, if so, bring the rear towards it, use a reflective foil to cover the front and rear window.

Before driving, ventilate car interior thoroughly 5min. or more.

Check baby's seat for hot spots (possibility of burns).

Cover dark coloured seats with white covers, to keep the heat off!

Partially open windows, press the recirculation's vent button, to stop the hot air from entering, then turn A/C's temperature dial 6°C under outer temperature or turn to home-rome temperature 20°C-24°C, to prevent a shock situation.

When cold air (heated up dashboard temperature decreased) is sufficient, then close windows.

Parking your car in a cool place, especially when you park your car at temperatures above 35°C is a good idea, than the engine room compartment can reach a temperature of 100°C!, which isn't good for the electronic control module's platines, nor its components, these platines shrink / expand dramatically, (are heated in traffic jams/cooled when traffic rolls on, a continuous cycle), the manufacturer test temperatures for these modules are -40°C to 80°C. We also encounter high temperatures on a more stop than go environment on the highway, where engine room temperatures also can reach 100°C!, if you are in situation like this, turn your engine off! These platines will have micro fine cracks, and therefore fail, and if vital system components, like Airbag, ESP and Co. (interacting security systems) falter, go directly to the next service center! An already heat damaged module will probably fail in the next hot day's traffic jam. At the top level of all failure statistics are electronic components.